After a different kind of adventure I am going back to my bike in Kenya, Nairobi. And a new adventure begins. These connecting flights make me exhausted. Furthermore I am still in pain of my trip from Ethiopia and Kenya.
Esra Alkan had sent me a message, months ago. “Gürkan I want to join you in Africa.” I know Esra by her tours in Turkey. I got “Yes she can do it” for her from Enes Sensoy and Funda Uluturk. We arrived in Kenya, Nairobi the same day. She came from Turkey, I came from Oman. We met at the airport. We went to Villa Rock Falls Guest House which I had stayed before I left Kenya. There was 29th October Reception (reception for Turkish Republic Day) in Turkish Embassy. We went to the reception after we settled down.
We spent 5 days together in Nairobi before setting off. I met with the cyclists from Kenya Cycling Federation and we had a ride. Our ambassador hosted us all in the Turkish Embassy. I explained what I did and what I am going to do. “So what is going to happen after this tour ends?” They asked me.
I always laugh answering this question. I remember the December 2010 in South Korea, I said that “I would tour the whole world if I get the possibility” in my tent when the weather was minus 5 °C. When the tour will finish, I want to be Sports Minister of Turkey if people support me. Of course this is a big dream, why they should vote for me instead of all these other people? Right. So that’s why I have a plan B 🙂
One day Nilay flowing me on the web page sent me a message. “Gürkan I am in Nairobi, if you have time let us meet.” I had lots of time, so we met. She was a bank employee before 2012. She left her job and has started to tour the whole world. She met her husband on the road. She teaches in schools during her tour. I believe she gained lots of experience. This is her web site; site adresi internette görünmüyor.
The price of entrance to the national museum is 25 USD per person in Nairobi, it is too much I think but anyway we entered to the museum and looked around. We admire the room in which the bird population in the country is presented. There were so many birds. There is a world map showing the birds which wear transmitters and how far they fly. One of the birds flew from Kenya to Siberia near to Yakutia. I was surprised, that bird was better than me. The other interesting room was where the human remains dating back tens of thousands years were exhibited which were discovered by archaeologists. There was a human skull which was 20.000 years old. The oldest human body was found recently in South Africa. I hope to visit it.
We spent a day with Erkan who works in town and following my tour for long on web time in Nairobi. He imports the plastic covers for greenhouses in Kenya from Turkey. Together with Israelis they share this market in this region.
Janic and Pierre who I met in Ethiopia are pedaling to Kenya right now. I thought to go where they were and then we could go to Uganda, Rwanda. Then I gave up this idea. This road might be difficult for Esra and she could give up at some point. First I have to be with her on our own on the road.
It is possible to find camping areas on Kenya’s planes like I mentioned in my previous writings. You have to pay 300 to 500 Shillings (Kenyan currency) for camping. They have shower, WC and restaurant. The south road which goes to Tanzanian border was passing through the far east of Masai Mara. I mean I am going along the Masai Mara border. The side roads we were riding on were not in a region of touristic attractions. I thought maybe one of the clans invites us but it didn’t happen. One day we went to a village for camping. The kids in the fenced village house run away when they saw me. The old lady asked me to leave the area. I did leave the area and asked the old lady to come over. She settled down little bit when she saw Esra. One of the few advantages of traveling with a lady is people looking from a different perspective about me. I tried to explain with my body language that we want to camp here. Esra tried the same thing after me. After Esra’s trial, a kid was sent by the old lady to get some help from one of the houses in the village. Daughter of the old lady came too. Esra took photos of the old lady and others by her phone unbeknownst. If they had noticed they would got angry or asked for money. That’s why I don’t use my camera before I get solution about my situation in such areas. But I don’t want to get involved in Esra’s business, she has one month trip and she wants to catch them. I will go away anyway if they say anything about photo shooting. The girl who came for help had a smattering of English. “The head of the house is not here, so we cannot let you stay. If you wait for him then you can ask.” she said, so I decided to leave and we were on the road again. We found a camping area near a building after 2 km. The building was in a quite good shape obviously belonging to a wealthy man. There was another village of Masai behind the building. A villager asked some money from us for camping there. I gave 2 USD. As we were ready to go for camping Esra asked:
– Gürkan can you ask whether there is a shower?
My nerves broke down and started to laugh when she asked me to ask is there a shower. We were in Masai area and camping near their village…
– What shower? Are you serious?
– How can I know? Maybe they have.
I think she assumed that we are going to stay in that building or in their village. That’s why she asked the question 🙂
We came across Masai’s animal market 2km after we started to ride the next day. Of course we had to take a look. People were curious about us. We left our bikes. I told Esra to wait near the bikes and I started to record a video of around. When I got back to Esra she already had lots of friends, talking each other in Tanzanian.
I think that there are any Masai without livestock. I guess every family has at least 10 cattle. Men cannot get married if they don’t have cattle. You want to get married you have to pay at least 10 cattle. In my trip during Ethiopia and Kenya I realize that people don’t feed their animal with artificial feed. That’s why meat is delicious. The egg yolks are fascinating. Animal husbandry is so successful but either they don’t know how good they are or they do but someone buys for cheep and under pay them. A whole ram is sold for 45 USD. The other thing that got my attention is that there is no horse in Kenya. One day we were resting in a restaurant of a guesthouse.
– I have not seen any horses in the country. How interesting.
– You have not come across yet.
– How come Esra, I had not seen in North and I have not seen in South too. There has to be a reason. Let me ask this man.
– Excuse me I am wondering that why we have not seen any horses?
After a smile he said,
– The price of a horse in Kenya is 15000 USD there is no one rich enough to buy a horse in this country. If you see a man with horse, be sure that this man is rich.
Even kids are on the horse in Ethiopia. Neighbor has but they haven’t. There aren’t any wild animal living areas suitable for tourism in Ethiopia for instance. Ethiopia doesn’t have many national parks like Kenya.
The place for border cross is under construction. When we came to the place the sellers jumped on us.. My friend, my friend.. As if they want to help..
I realize they won’t leave us alone. I looked at one of them and said,
– Look at me my friend. You are trying to help me as if because of your hospitality, thanks. But if you help me and then ask for some money, I am not paying any Shilling. So cut the crap.
He left me immediately. So we entered Tanzania in peace.