Tabernas Desert: <\/strong>A desert in Spain I crossed during January. The temperature changed from minus 1 to plus 15\u00b0C during day and minus 5\u00b0C at night. There are gas stations every 50 km. The only desert in Europe.<\/p>\nBy the way, I have had traversed 6 deserts and 3 or 4 deserts remain. : )<\/p>\n
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Along this road many people stopped me. Especially it was really hard for me when they made me stop while climbing up a dune. Not due to gear shifting. My leg muscles burn, they heat up while climbing up and when I stop they cool down immediately. Restarting to pedal I get serious muscle pain for the first 3 to 4 minutes.<\/p>\n
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I was riding up and down the sand dunes, it was about 1:30 p.m. when I saw a small town behind the sand dunes. Hugh, alright I\u2019ll take a short rest in this town before I go on. Coming closer to the town I recognize the crowd on the road. Really many people were standing on both sides of the road. Also, a man with a bouquet of flowers in his hands. I swear that I looked back behind me \u201cDude, is someone coming or is all this for me?\u201d Samet inside the car shouts \u201cmove, move\u201d … : ). Oh my god, what\u2019s this? Hhaahaha…<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
I mix with the crowd. For the next 20 minutes photos were taken at the city square. People didn\u2019t let me go. The mayor Abu Ajram presented me the flowers:<\/p>\n
–\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Mr. Gurkan welcome to our town. We want to host you today. We would appreciate if you accept.<\/p>\n
–\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Well, what to say, I would like to of course, thank you very much.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
First we went to the municipality building with a convoy of 30 cars. There was a small event held for me. The journalists and TV-reporters were there. Drinks and sweet were offered. At last a huge cake<\/p>\n
–\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Thank you very much, today is my birthday and I thought I wouldn\u2019t have a birthday cake. I\u2019m very happy for this surprise. Thank you very much.<\/p>\n
–\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Really Mr. Gurkan, how old are you?<\/p>\n
–\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 I became 36 today.<\/p>\n
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The mayor Ahmet Elbabadi took his keffiyeh off his head and presented me. At night Samet told me that when a state official presents his own keffiyeh it is to honor the person. Plaques and presents were given. It was impossible to carry all those plaques on the bike. Therefore, I put them in Samet and Mirzuq\u2019s car which I sent to Turkey via cargo after 50 km. Actually, they offered me to take all my load and said: \u201cGo free without any load on you bike\u201d. No thanks bro. I prefer to travel as if you were not escorting me.<\/p>\n
Well since we are on this subject. When you talk about me I\u2019m sure people say: \u201cHe takes a bus or goes by car, for sure\u201d. Also, you may have heard the question: \u201cWhat about sea, how does he cross?\u201d And the last question might be: \u201cWhy the hell is he traveling?\u201d Honestly I must say that as long as there aren\u2019t any life threatening issues and I have enough power in my legs \u201cI\u2019ll only travel on bike\u201d I won\u2019t give my load on bike up to the car escorting me. Some may call this foolishness, some eager, some proudness, etc. No my friend, this is my life and I\u2019m on the road to realize my own dream taking respect to what I\u2019m undertaking. I must admit that it is hard but I like to travel this way. I\u2019m happy so. : )<\/p>\n
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This night they hosted me at municipality. Dude, I had overnighted in municipality buildings in various countries but never seen such a guestroom before. Especially the bedroom wowww. I took a photo of it and sent immediately to Enes with whom we stayed in a municipality room. Instantly he sent me a message fully foul-mouthed.<\/p>\n
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The main income of this town was due to breeding and farming. It lies on the crossing of Al-Ula. There is a gas station also. I didn\u2019t see any date palms around but I\u2019m sure there were many. The town\u2019s kids waited at the door of the guestroom till night.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
But Samet and Mirzuq didn\u2019t allow me to go out and also didn\u2019t let the people come in. For dinner we had lamb on rice, fruits and date desserts. Then, Arabian coffee and tea. I got informed in detail about their occupations and why were they escorting me. Also, they told about why tourists are not and will not be permitted to enter the country in detail. I didn\u2019t argued against these explanations saying: \u201cYes, but\u2026\u201d It is their own culture and lifestyle. They requested from me not to share what was spoken among us and I won\u2019t write about these issues on social media. I did similar talks in different regions of Saudi Arabia both with men and women. The outcome was almost the same everywhere. But, I would like to give a detail about my travel in Saudi Arabia: They won\u2019t be able to put under control the system they want to protect in the future\u201d<\/p>\n
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The next they we set off. At noon during a rest on roadside a trail truck stopped next to us. I thought he stopped while he recognized my bicycle. The driver came next to us and talked to Samet in Arabic. I got it, he was asking for an address. He got the description, turned back and saw the bicycle and looked at the Turkish flag on the back.<\/p>\n
–\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 What are you doing here my friend?<\/p>\n
–\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Traveling.<\/p>\n
–\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 May it be easy.<\/p>\n
He said and turned his back. While he was gone Samet asked me:<\/p>\n
–\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 I guess you are not famous in Turkey as you are here?<\/p>\n
–\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 No, I\u2019m not. Only people interested in cycling and traveling know me.<\/p>\n
–\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 What you do is impressive but difficult. I couldn\u2019t do. I respect for what you are doing. Also, Saudi people like you very much. Our chief calls us frequently and asks for your well-being. We\u2019ll do our best for you till you exit the country.<\/p>\n
– Thank you very much.<\/p>\n
By the way, since Turkish trailer truck drivers get only transit visa from Saudi Arabia they have to leave the country as soon as they deliver their freight. I guess our Turkish driver was late since he didn\u2019t stop for a chat. You know from my road memories how good I get along with those drivers.<\/p>\n
Saudi Arabia was really a different experience for me. They let me experience at least how it feels like being a star without actually being one and honestly my first feeling was panic and fear. Still, when I go through towns and villages I feel uneasy. In one country one of our citizens wanted to invite Kivanc Tatl\u0131tug (a Turkish movie star<\/em>). He wanted me to call his manager. I said, alright (what\u2019s got this to do with me? : ). The manager of him and many other stars is a friend of mine from the university. I called her and talked about this invitation, whether it is possible. She said: \u201cGurkan we don\u2019t come to this geography because of life threatening interest of people.\u201d Later on I was confirmed about this information at the Jordan Embassy. When Kivanc Tatlitug was at the embassy, the employees feared that the wall of the building wouldn\u2019t resist the swarm of the people. Arabs are mad lovers of Kivanc Tatlitug they had almost smashed him to death. When Arabs like someone they like to death, similarly when they hate someone they hate to death. The Arabs know no bounds. Make or break.<\/p>\nAs I arrived in Dumat Al-Jandal two police cars were waiting for me at the city entrance. In the city at each roundabout one of the police officers was blocking the other road. After providing my safe pass they were clearing the roads. Dude, I messed up the city traffic. As we came to traffic lights turning red the roundabouts were cleared immediately. (By the way, everybody in Saudi Arabia obeys to the traffic lights in the cities because traffic tickets are high. Even the richest would stop after paying a couple traffic tickets.) \u00a0At every red traffic light a camera takes a photo of the car automatically, lightning shortly. Aha while I was thinking that those guys would get traffic tickets I realized that the system was turned off due to me. Expecting a small hotel I was brought to one of the best hotels of the town.\u00a0 I said to Samet: \u201cDude, no need for such an expensive hotel\u201d but then was informed that a stay for 3 nights was already paid. Upon telling to Samet that the city is nice and that I would like to visit its historical places, Samet called the city officials. How nice people, thanks to all of them.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Duma Al-Jandal is the first archaic city I visited in Saudi Arabia. I kept saying the word \u201ckadim\u201d (archaic in Turkish and Arabic<\/em>) in Saudi Arabia. They also use this word \u201ckadim\u201d a lot in Arabic the meaning the same; old very old.<\/p>\n<\/p>\n
The name of the city comes from Dumah the sixth child of Prophet Ishmael\u2019s second wife. This city was under the rule of Qedar Kingdom. The time period I\u2019m talking about is from 800 BC (at least the beginning of its written history) to 633 AD. As I was reading about the history of this city something caught my attention: This kingdom was ruled by queens for centuries.\u00a0 Names of kings were not mentioned anywhere. The border of the kingdom stretched from Sinai Peninsula to eastern Arabian Peninsula. Arab territories were ruled by women for 1200 years or maybe more than that who knows. Some of the queens fought against Roman Empire. The guide accompanying me was proud of these female rulers. I could feel this from his speech. In 629 Prophet Muhammed gave the order to capture the city and after a combat in 633 this city was included into Islamic territories.<\/p>\n
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During a later period caliph Omar lived here for a while and helped to the construction of the mosque Omar Bin Al-Khattab. I held my Friday pray in that mosque together with Samet and Mirzuq. Well, this old mosque is still in charge. Those two mosques, Omar Bin Al-Khattab and Dome of the Rock in Palestine are special to me. \u00a0There is a place called Al Dar\u2019i Quarter next to the mosque, an old bazaar. The restoration works were neatly done. The dwellings and streets are nested. You can pass to buildings from one to the other quite easily. Actually, this architecture came familiar to me. I saw the same interior design in Morocco but the exterior designs were different.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
One evening we came here to drink coffee. It was pretty crowded, the number of women outstanding. While some of the women were taking my photos their companions recognize me and say something. Then, they come to Samet and ask him whether I\u2019m the Turk Rahel. Samet said a few \u201cyes\u201d and then there was a stampede, people swarmed. All the people around came to me to take a photo. This chaos and photo shooting took more than an hour and at the end we couldn\u2019t drink coffee. We were packed like sardines in that place. The street we wanted to take got blocked due to crowd. \u201cDUDE I AM NOT A STAR, ALLOOO!\u201d Samet, Mirzuq and me could hardly go out elbowing our way across. It was a hard night.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
The next day, as it happened in every town, I met with Turkish people from Hatay. Cahit Abi (elderly brother in Turkish<\/em>) came over here and opened Istanbul Restaurant. He cooked a delicious kebab meal for me. His friend Metin is hairdresser working together with his wife. I asked him what they do when women call. He is sending his wife to the houses. His wife was working for women, I got it.<\/p>\nThis gender segregation issue results in strange situations in this country. For example, the educational level of women are quite high. They are mainly becoming teacher but if they are assigned to a different town, they usually are not able to work there, because women are not allowed to drive. So, a male member of the family has to accompany her. The Saudi Arabian fathers don\u2019t allow their daughters to go anywhere on their own. This time the cost doubles and it becomes meaningless to work. The state pays 450 USD for unemployment. Therefore women prefer to sit at home. Of course this is just the outlook, the Saudi women are very active in e-commerce sector. They establish e-stores via Instagram or Snapchat and sell their handicrafts, etc.<\/p>\n
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In this city I came upon a date palm festival, one of the biggest in the north. I guess I ate all the possible desserts that can be made by dates. Wow what\u2019s this, wow what\u2019s that, wow what does it taste like? I tasted all different kinds of dates. Well, since I had a camera in my hand and was a foreigner every one called me to his own stand. The mayor also visited the festival. They presented me a box with best dates.<\/p>\n
After coming out of the tent I saw another one across.<\/p>\n
–\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 What is in this tent Samet?<\/p>\n
–\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Gurkan only women and families are allowed to enter this tent. We cannot enter.<\/p>\n
–\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Dude, how do you know?<\/p>\n
–\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 There are rules. Don\u2019t you see the religious police standing in front of the tent? We can\u2019t tell him what to do.<\/p>\n
–\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Come on, let us ask at least. Translate him what I\u2019m saying to you.<\/p>\n
We talked to the religious police and he allowed us to enter the tent but under one condition not to take photos inside. I said alright. Honestly I must say that I wasn\u2019t expecting that easy. We entered inside the tent. There were 50-60 stands occupied by women. The women who knew me took their handys out to take my photo. They invited me to their stands. Some of them were speaking English fluently. As I already mentioned above, Saudi Arabian women are educated. I always found someone speaking English even in remotest towns. As it came in my mind let me share another information. If young people want to go abroad for education the state grants all of them under one condition to return to their countries.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
I ate the meals cooked and looked at the handicrafts produced by the women in the tent. There were many handicrafts which resembled that of inner Anatolia. When I was invited by men in Saudi Arabia almost always was lamb on rice or goat on rice on the table. But in this tent I realized that next time when I visit Saudi Arabia I\u2019ll try to get invited into women assemblies. There, the meal variety is much higher and also their taste. Thanks to them, I spent about half an hour in the tent. I was happy for this unique experience.<\/p>\n
Dumat Al-Jandal is the town I would stay longer if I would visit Saudi Arabia once more. I\u2019m sure there are many places worth sightseeing around this town.<\/p>\n
The next day I was on the road again. After this point there is an uninterrupted desert traverse for 350 km till the town Hail. Let\u2019s see what else I\u2019ll come upon.<\/p>\n
\u00a0<\/p>\n
\u00a0<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
The route I followed in Saudi Arabia on bike I saw a civil jeep waiting for me as I left Ahmet\u2019s hut in the morning. I waved and passed by. Nothing to do, they will follow me everywhere. Of course there will be some places where they would not able to. Morning hours of January […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":2506,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[101,142,147],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2124","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-world-tour","category-middle-east","category-saudi-arabia"],"yoast_head":"\n
Through the desert to the archaic city Dumat Al-Jandal in Saudi Arabia – G\u00fcrkan Gen\u00e7<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/gurkangenc.com\/en\/2015\/08\/through-the-desert-to-the-archaic-city-dumat-al-jandal-in-saudi-arabia\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Through the desert to the archaic city Dumat Al-Jandal in Saudi Arabia – G\u00fcrkan Gen\u00e7\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"The route I followed in Saudi Arabia on bike I saw a civil jeep waiting for me as I left Ahmet\u2019s hut in the morning. I waved and passed by. Nothing to do, they will follow me everywhere. Of course there will be some places where they would not able to. 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I waved and passed by. Nothing to do, they will follow me everywhere. Of course there will be some places where they would not able to. 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